To commemorate the 20th anniversary of its exceptionally successful sporty Aquanaut series, Patek Philippe has planned several premieres. The new Ref. 5168G is the first men’s Aquanaut wristwatch in 18K white gold. With its somewhat warmer hue, it clearly sets itself apart from stainless steel. But as with the other Aquanaut models (and the Nautilus watches), the design of the gently rounded octagonal bezel with vertically satin-finished flats and chamfered polished flanks remains unchanged.

Moreover, with a diameter of 42 millimeters, it is the largest model in this line The format pays tribute to the original 1976 Nautilus of the same size that was nicknamed “Jumbo” and today is still referred to by that name among collectors. The night blue hue of the dial and the strap is new as well. Additionally, the night blue color of the dial gradates from bright in the center to black toward the outside as was the case with the Ref. 5164 Aquanaut Travel Time in rose gold (and as a further reminiscence of the bright-dark gradation of the Nautilus).

With its finely embossed checkerboard pattern, it provides the ideal backdrop for the applied Arabic numerals in white gold. Thanks to the Superluminova coating, they are readily visible in the dark. Another new facet of the Ref. 5168G: the luminous five-minute markers are set by hand appliques in 18K white gold. Hovering above the dial, sharp-tipped luminous baton hands for the hours and minutes are paired with a slender, counterbalanced and white-laquered parfil seconds hand in bronze. The sapphire-crystal case back reveals the precise and elegant self-winding manufacture movement that choreographs the ballet of time.

An 18K white-gold case accommodates the self-winding caliber 324 S C movement. It unites all of the hallmarks that appeal to men with a penchant for classic mechanical horology: traditional haute horlogerie and innovative high-end technology. Merely 3.3 millimeters in height, the movement is so flat that even with its elaborate seals and gaskets, the complete watch is still only 8.25 millimeters thick overall. Nonetheless, it is a veritable time machine.

With its heavy central rotor in 21K gold, it extracts and stores energy from every movement of the wrist and features a rate accuracy of -3 to +2 seconds per day as specified by the directives of the Patek Philippe Seal. The finissage of the movement, visible through the sapphire-crystal case back, is truly fascinating.